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Spring is coming! Here comes the MUD!!

After the winter we have had it's hard to believe that spring is right around the corner. This year is looking to shape up as a messy mud season as the piles and piles of snow melt. With all this moisture comes dermatological and hoof problems, the most common being "scratches" and thrush. In this issue of Timely Topics we will discuss each of these conditions, their cause and treatment plans.

"Scratches" - Otherwise known as Pastern Dermatitis, is caused by a fungus which is often complicated by an accompanying bacterial infection. The fungus thrives in wet, organic matter which is why we see this condition a lot more frequently during the wet, muddy spring months. The skin around the pastern and sometimes around the fetlock and lower cannon bone becomes crusty, thickened and scabby and will often crack, ooze and/or bleed. The horse is generally painful on palpation of these areas and if the infection permeates to deeper tissues within the skin the leg may swell, sometimes dramatically so in the case of a secondary cellulitis or lymphangitis. To the left are some examples of horses affected by scratches.

As seen in these photos horses with white limbs are most commonly affected by this problem due to the fact that non-pigmented skin is much more sensitive. Some horses also seem more susceptible than others and have reoccurring infections whenever their environment is wet. Horses with long, thick hair around their lower limbs also trap more moisture in their coats making them more susceptible as well.

 

 

How is scratches treated? There are many ointments, salves, and creams on the market that all claim to be the best remedies for scratches. Over the years we have found that one of the simplest recipes is the most effective in many cases. The mixture is as follows; half of a tub of regular Desetin and half of a tub of Furazone mixed with a packet of Azium. Wash the leg thoroughly with Novalsan scrub - DO NOT PICK THE CRUSTS as this will open the skin and make it easy for infection to set in. Massage gently. Allow the scrub to remain on the leg for 10-15 minutes and then rinse thoroughly. The key to all of this is to towel dry the leg as much as possible and air dry it before treating with the ointment. Once the leg is dry apply the ointment liberally. Depending on how thick and stubborn the crusts are we may advise wrapping the affected area for the first few days to help keep the ointment in place to help it permeate the crust and soften them. Wash the leg daily massaging more and more of the crusts off the leg. If there is any swelling or discharge we may advise administration of oral or injectable antibiotics. Once most of the crusts have come off clipping the legs with a #10 blade can help keep the legs clean and dry.

There are some measures that can be taken to help prevent scratches. If your horse has a thick, long coat around his legs clipping the legs with a #10 blade will help keep the skin dry. Washing mud off the legs after your horse comes in from turnout or riding and drying throughly with a towel before putting him back in the stall will remove the causative agents. The key here is to keep your horses legs clean and dry as much as possible which will keep this painful and unsightly condition at bay.

"Thrush"- This stinky condition is caused by an anaerobic bacteria that loves soft, moist hooves that have been slopping around in mud. It appears as a black tarry substance that smells horrible and most commonly grows in the clefts and sulci of the frog. The underside of the hoof will look a lot like the photo to the left.

Note how the whole frog has a blackened appearance is even slightly eaten away. As the infection affects deeper structures more of the frog will deteriorate. Generally thrush is a superficial infection but if left untreated it can burrow it's way down to sensitive soft tissue beneath the frog and up to the coronet band between the heels which can cause lameness.

 

 

The most important thing in treating thrush is cleanliness. Keeping the horse out of wet environments such as muddy paddocks or dirty stalls is important. Regular picking of the hooves is necessary to remove organic debris. If a decent amount of the frog is affected it may need to be debrided by your blacksmith or veterinarian. Infected tissue will be removed to help get a jump start on treatment with topical medications. There are a variety of available medications to treat thrush. For superficial cases of thrush over the counter medications such as Thrush Buster, Kopertox and Farriers Barrier work well. Simple home remedies such as using a dilute bleach solution may also be effective. These treatments, however, may be too harsh to use when deeper tissues are affected causing severe discomfort for the horse. In the case of deep seated thrush prescription medications may be needed. Packing the clefts of the frog with Pledget pads or applying Quartermaster and packing with cotton balls daily is best for these tougher cases. These medications are strong enough to kill the organisms but will not irritate sensitive underlying tissues. Persistent or severe cases may need more intense care such as White Lightning treatments and/or cryosurgery.

If you have any questions on how to prevent or treat either of these common condition please feel free to contact one of our veterinarians. We'd be glad to help! Here's hoping for as dry of a mud season as possible!

Timely Topics Archives

Hot Weather Management

With the arrival of summer comes the heat and humidity. Just as we have special needs to keep us feeling our best during the dog days of summer, our equine companions do as well. Here are some suggestions to keep your horse feeling and performing his best along with some warning signs of hot weather problems.

Exercising – it’s always best to take it easy in the severe heat. Try and ride either early in the morning or late in the evening to avoid the heat of the day. And if your horse seems tired or distressed, stop. He could be overheating and be on the verge of heat stroke (see symptoms and treatments below). A cool, but not ice cold, hosing after a workout will help recovery time. Running the cool hose over his throatlatch and neck as well as between the hind legs can aid to cool a hot horse efficiently. NEVER spray a horse directly in the face or head – aside from just not liking it, some will get water down their ears which can cause problems. Scrape the horse thoroughly as water can act as insulator in a soaked horse.
Water your horse out slowly with cool, not ice cold, water. A few sips at a time rather than gulping large quantities replace lost fluids without giving him a belly ache.

Make sure your horse has the ability to sweat during a work on a hot day – this is very important to help him cool himself. If your horse suffers from Anhydrosis (non-sweater) he will be at a very high risk for heat stroke and other heat related ailments. Ask one of our veterinarians for special management considerations in this case.

Management – adding electrolytes or sprinkling plain table salt in your horses feed will encourage him to drink and stay hydrated. Most horses do just fine on the maintenance dosage of your electrolyte of choice. The “performance” horse dose should be reserved for horses that work excessively hard and sweat profusely such as racehorses or upper level event horses. Overdosing electrolytes can cause your horse to drink excessively which can make your horse sick. Providing a salt block is another affective way to encourage your horse to drink. And ALWAYS offer your horse clean fresh water.

If your horse is turned out or lives outside, make sure he has adequate shade for refuge from the hot sun. You may also consider turning him out overnight when it is cooler and less buggy. And for show horses, turning out overnight can help prevent a sunburned coat. 

And it is particularly important to watch those senior citizens. If your horse has a long, thick coat like those older guys with Cushings Disease, a body clipping will help cool him off. 

**Signs of heat stroke – heat stroke can affect your horse fairly easily, and it doesn’t even have to be the hottest days of the summer for this to happen.  It is a dangerous condition not only for the horse but for the handlers around the horse and should be taken seriously. 

Signs of heat stroke include:

-Lack of sweating
-Increased respiration rate
-Behavior changes/disorientation
-Shaking/tremors
-Repeated collapse

*First Aid for Heat Stroke

  • Get the horse out of the sun and into a shady spot. If the horse appears weak as though he’s about to collapse, do not bring him into a confined space – horses with heat stroke are prone to severe disorientation and repeated collapse which can be quite violent. It’s best to keep him in an open and shady area if possible as to not cause injury from hitting into things.

  • Cool him down. Run the cold hose over his neck and between his hind limbs. NEVER spray a horse with heat stroke in the face – if he is disoriented it may startle him causing him to rear and flip over. Sponging the face and back of the head is helpful if safe for the handler.

  • Once your horse has been taken to a cool, safe area and the cooling down process has started, call your veterinarian immediately. If severe enough, your horse may require intravenous fluids and medications for shock. 

Summertime is a great time of the year to enjoy your horse. By taking some basic precautions can help you have a safe and happy summer!

 

 

 

 

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Backstretch Veterinary, Inc.
39 Miller Street
Norfolk, MA 02056
Office: 508-520-4300 | Fax: 508-520-4303 | Emergency: 508-473-6793